“Recognition is everything”
Before we got to day 25, we had to finish day 24. Leaving Bangkok on November 19 was pretty interesting. First, of course, we had another opportunity to meet with our Thai friends who are helping to put all the good stuff in place in Thailand. Another meal and another meeting to summarize what we had done during the past two weeks, how we would pursue the opportunities and then off to the airport. With bags. Lots of bags, especially a heavy one filled with books and DVDs for India.
It was very, very heavy and the Air India check in gal told us that the cost would be over $300 for excess baggage. We just looked at her and then asked if she was sure that was the cost. She said she was and then a whole flurry of excitement took place in Thai. We sort of just stood there while 3 people were very busy with our luggage and forms, phone calls and conferencing with each other and other people, too, for about 15 minutes. I finally asked what the next step was and one of the three people giggled and said that because we had been nice they had reduced the excess charge to about $125. She said that if we had been unpleasant they would not have done it, but since we did not raise our voices or get mean, they had worked with the supervisor and “solved” some of the charges. What a great way to finish our visit to Thailand, a country where living in harmony is valued greatly and making sure that no one looses face for any reason is a social obligation.
So we got on the plane feeling that the fact that we are nice people had been recognized by other people who were also nice.
Then we arrived in Mumbai (Bombay) and found that the car sent by our hotel in Mumbai (promised in our internet booking earlier that day for our hotel in which to spend the night before heading off to Delhi) was not at the airport. It is a big hotel so we located the driver who was there for another passenger, told him we were booked in the hotel and waited while he arranged our transportation.
When we got to the hotel, we found that the reason there was no car there was that it takes 24-48 hours for an online booking to get to the hotel’s front desk. There was no such notice on the website and it did accept our booking that morning. The hotel, we were told, was fully booked but the manager was working on the problem.
While we waited we noticed a poster from the hotel chain that said, “Recognition is everything”. The hotel had not recognized us electronically but, lo and behold, suddenly there was a voice saying, “Dr Laibow. How nice to see you. Hello, General Stubblebine!”
We turned around and there was a man who was at our lectures at the Yoga Institute in Mumbai last July who happened to be picking up a business associate. How nice to be recognized, if not by the hotel, then by a friendly face!
The hotel found us a room; we spent the night and were off the next morning to the domestic airport to go on to Delhi.
Day 25: November 20, 2006
Today we arrived in Delhi on Kingfisher Airlines (spectacular meal in coach class, simply spectacular!) and found that there were 3 uniformed men waiting to ask us if I was Dr. Laibow. I was. They said that there was a lady looking for me outside the arrival area and that she did not know what I looked like, nor would I recognize her so they would escort us to her.
They did. She was a perfectly lovely lady who is the wife of the organizer of the meeting I was to address the next day, Venita.
She drove us, along with part of our luggage (the rest was in another car thoughtfully provided for the occasion) to the Indian Guest House where our accommodation had been provided for us by the Minister of Food Production who is also the Codex Contact Point and the President of the All India Panchayat Parishad [AIPP] which is the apex body of elected representatives of local authorities at District, Block and Village levels in India. It represents 257,000 Village councils, over 5,500 Intermediate councils [called “Samittee”] and 575 districts [out of the 602 districts in India]. It has establishments in 23 states.
It is a simple, clean facility with an air conditioner (which we did not need at this season), a double bed and a private bathroom. It was really all we needed.
After a delightful meal in the home of the organizer, Arun Shrivastava, and Vanita. Her mother, a famous OB-GYN doctor was there, too, since she was also addressing the meeting the next day.
We went back to the Guest House knowing that Lacey Banks, our associate and friend, would be picked up by the driver assigned to take care of all of us.
Day 26: November 21, 2006
Breakfast was the first order of business so we went to the breakfast room where the choices were limited to toasted white bread and butter or untoasted white bread and butter. After some negotiation we managed to get some jam into the picture. Lacey’s Aunt Dot (baker extraordinaire) saved the day because Lacey came equipped with a loaf of raisin bread which saved the day!
Then dressing. I had decided to wear a sari as a mark of respect for the culture of the farmers of India. I have saris. I know how to wear saris. Wrapping one properly is a bit shaky, though. I asked Vanita to help me get dressed and she did. She had obviously done this sort of thing before! So off we went to the meeting.
This is a tremendously important group of people. 70% of Indians are farmers. They are being driven off the land just like subsistence farmers everywhere by the multinational corporate drive to industrialize the food supply. Codex is a huge part of that. What happens to people who cannot afford GM seeds or expensive (and dangerous) pesticides, who loose their land and have no urban skill base? Here in India they kill themselves because they have no options for themselves and their families and there are no safety nets for them. Oh, by the way, they are doing the same in Europe. Farmers are committing suicide at about 1 per week in central Europe because they are being squeeze into destruction by the same policies and have nowhere to go according to Arun.
So we got to the fairgrounds where several thousand farmers and their political representatives from the local structure to the community to the regional (Village, Block, Grahm) had gathered. Numerous Ministers and Members of Parliament, lawyers, judges, scientists and rural development specialists were present. Leis were presented, an oil lamp with many wicks was lit, traditional musicians performed and the meeting began. It was conducted totally in Hindi. General Stubblebine, Lacey and I between us speak not one word of Hindi. Politicians spoke, and spoke and spoke and spoke. In Hindi.
Finally, Arun’s mother in law said that she wanted us to go have lunch because this would go on for a long time and we would not speak until after lunch anyway.
We wandered off to a toilet area which was clean, odorless, had dozens of toilets for men and women and which I did not use. They were porcelain rims on which your feet occupy the widening on either side and you squat. In a silk sari? I think not.
Lunch was served on newly washed plates and eaten with newly washed spoons in a system designed to server thousands of meals for several days. The food was delicious. During our stand-around meal, I was introduced to the Minister of Food Production (aka Codex Point of Contact for India). We talked about Codex and I gave him our book and DVD. Waving around a crisp (and greasy) papadam which someone had stuck into my hand while I was talking, I made the points to him about the new Indian Food Safety Law and its shortcomings and our concern with Codex. He invited us to talk to him to add our perspective to the development of regulations for the law and about our perspectives on Codex. You bet! What a great opportunity!
Lunch over, we went back to the tent to address the meeting. To my horror I realized that we were supposed to take off our shoes and mount a sheet-covered set of steel stairs, sit on a sheet covered set of mattresses until (and after) it was our turn to talk, do so and sit down again. Why horror, because I know how to wear a sari, stand and sit on a chair in a sari, but I was envisioning what it would be like to get up from sitting on the floor in one and, if I stepped on the wrong part, what it would be like to come unwrapped in front of thousands of people in (or out) of one.
However, I managed the draperies and when it was time to talk, did not deliver my address called “Farmers hold up more than half the sky” (which will be available on our website shortly since that was printed in the program. Instead, using an interpreter, I held up a magazine which a beggar child had held up to sell to us on the drive to the meeting. We bought it from her. It was the Indian Sunday Times: the cover story was “The Death of the Farmer” and talked about the suicides of the Indian farmers, over a thousand of them in one particular province, since July 2005. And in the same issue was an article about the pharmaceutical industry and their price gouging on medications, the fact that India was forbidden by its agreement with the WTO to manufacture any medication patented in India after 1995 and the need for new medications to deal with new ills in India.
I used the juxtaposition of the two articles to make it clear that food, not drugs, are the basis of health but that farmers are being driven off the land by a system called “Codex”. After my talk, the Minister responded by thanking me for it and by saying that India was aware of the issues we were raising and that that they were committed to solving them. He again, this time publicly, invited us to visit his office to begin the dialogue on what should be done!
Hot, tired and very, very dusty, we headed back to the Guest House where we changed clothes after showering off the dust.
We had dinner in a stunningly good kebab house and plunged into sleep.
Day 27: November 22, 2006
We had a full day of meetings with Arun and his colleagues to bring our joint vision for clean food for India into being. We had a home made Indian breakfast and lunch during the day while people came in and out and added to our discussions.
Along the way, we made contact with the Minister mentioned above and the Health Minister and will see them tomorrow! Not bad for two days.
Oh, by the way, I have been asked to write an article for the Delhi Medical Society journal on nutrition in medicine and Codex. You bet